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Simple Starlight Shrug Crochet Pattern

by | All Designs, Crochet, Free Patterns, Garments, Winter

After a whole month of not posting anything and feeling a little out of the loop, I’m so excited to finally be able to share my simple Starlight Shrug crochet pattern!

Simple Starlight Shrug

My Granny Square shirt is a great example of how I’m more interested in the construction of a garment than in the pattern itself. I figure once you know how the garment is put together, you can apply any stitch and pattern to it to create a new look. For this project, I focused on the shape and construction of the shrug. At its most basic, it’s a rectangle/square, with the sides folded down and sewn together to create arm holes. All About Ami made one using Lion Brand’s pattern, and Mama In A Stitch made one using V-stitches. In the end, the concept is the same, so I wanted to give it a try with a new stitch.

Simple Starlight Shrug

I chose to use the Tunisian Crochet Knit Stitch for my shrug. I love how Tunisian Crochet is a mix between crocheting and knitting, since your loops are kept on your hook/needle, but you don’t transfer your stitches from side to side like in knitting. My first project using Tunisian Crochet was the Gobelin Cowl, and it made such a unique pattern, you wouldn’t expect that it’s crochet. This time, I’m still crocheting, but the resulting stitch looks like a knit!

For my yarn, I chose to use Lion Brand’s Wool Ease Thick & Quick in Starlight. It’s the same as the Fishermen colorway except for a strand of glitter entwined in it. I can’t stand the loose glitter that my kids bring home on their art projects, but a little glitter in my sweater is completely acceptable and wonderful! The Thick & Quick yarn is a 6 Super Bulky weight, and I think the Tunisian Crochet knit stitch tends to use more yarn than normal crochet, so I used approximately 9 skeins of yarn and ended up with a large, super cozy cocoon of a sweater.

Speaking of large, I made it waaay too large a few times and had trouble with the curling that is inherent with the knit stitch. In the end, I turned the piece sideways so that the bottom of the sweater lay flat and the curl became part of the sleeve. I ended up working 45 chains (31 inches) and 69 rows (37 inches), using a Q/15.75mm tunisian hook.

starlight-shrug-12-a

starlight-shrug-13-a

Once the body of the sweater is complete, the rest of it is easy. Fold the corners down, work slip stitches to join the sides to create the arm hole, and finish off with a chunky ribbed collar. I worked the ribbed collar directly into the main sweater instead of creating a ribbed piece and sewing it on, which worked out better than I expected.

Simple Starlight Shrug with wide collars

I’ve created a few videos that I hope will help you with this pattern. The first one is to learn the Tunisian Crochet Knit Stitch, and the second is to show you how to work an attached ribbed collar directly to the sweater. I especially love this technique as it combined two steps into one!

After the whole sweater was done, I did choose to block my sweater by soaking it in cold water, squeezing out as much as I could (gently), lugging it to the washer for a spin cycle, and then laying it flat to dry on some blocking squaresI found on Amazon, while using some pins to help it hold its shape. I don’t think it made a huge difference, but it did feel a little more polished after it was all dry.

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Buy the Starlight Shrug kit from Lion Brand

I collaborated with Lion Brand on this project, and they have bundled this pattern along with the yarn needed to make it into a kit! Even better, you can get it for 20% off right now! Head over to Lion Brand and grab some beautiful Wool-Ease Thick & Quick yarn at 20% off to make this Starlight Shrug.

Free crochet pattern for a beautiful and simple Starlight Shrug, using Tunisian crochet knit stitch!

Supplies

Abbreviations

  • sl st – slip stitch
  • ch – chain stitch
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • hdc2tog – decrease of two half double crochet stitch: Yarn over. Insert hook into extra front loop of first stitch. Without yarning over, insert hook into extra front loop of second stitch. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

  • Gauge = 6 stitches, 7 rows in 4×4 inches
  • Length is 31″ without collar. Width is 37″ from armhole to armhole.
  • This pattern uses the Tunisian Crochet Knit Stitch. Each row listed is one set of working a forward row and a return row.
  • The rows of the collar do not exactly match up after working around the body of the sweater. The last slip stitch of Row 90 is actually worked into the same stitch as Row 1 – yup, you’ll need to double up there. The reason is that you need to create an extra row that closes the gap between rows. Since this is on the bottom back of the sweater, a little fudging won’t be as noticeable either.
  • Once all the rows of the collar are made, you’ll need to join the last row with the first row. I joined using slip stitches on the wrong side of the collar. You also have the option of fastening off Row 91 with a long tail and join using a mattress stitch.

Sizing

  • The number of chains you start with is the length of your garment, from your neckline down. The number of rows you work is the width of your garment, and determines how far down your arms the shrug will drape. Remember that the weight of the yarn will drag it lower than you think.

Simple Starlight Shrug

Simple Starlight Shrug Instructions

Chain 45.

Row 1a: Starting with the second chain from hook, work your hook into the back hump of each chain, keeping each loop on the hook. At the end of this forward row, you will have 45 loops on your hook.

Row 1b: Yarn over, pull up one loop onto your hook. *Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.* Repeat from * until you have one loop left on the hook.

Row 2a: Insert hook behind the first vertical post, as shown below. Pull up a loop. Continue to insert hook behind each of the next 43 vertical posts, pulling up a loop onto your hook. At the end of the row, insert your hook into the chain stitch, as shown below. You should have 45 loops on your hook.

Row 2b: Yarn over, pull up one loop onto your hook. *Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.* Repeat from * until you have one loop left on the hook.

Rows 3-69: Repeat Row 2a forward row + Row 2b return row.

Row 70: Insert hook behind the first vertical post and complete a slip stitch. Continue to insert hook behind each of the next 43 vertical posts, pulling up a loop and completing a slip stitch. At the end of the row, insert your hook into the chain stitch, pull up a loop, complete a slip stitch. You should have one loop on your hook. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Arm Holes

  1. Turn the body of the sweater so that the curls are on the sides.
  2. Fold the corners of the body piece into the center. Use slip stitches to join the arm edges together, working through all 4 loops (2 loops on each edge) of each of 10 stitches. When you’re joining the arm edges together using slip stitches, it’s best to work those slip stitches on the wrong side, which means you should have the sweater lying inside out, which is the opposite as shown in the photo below.

starlight-shrug-14-a

Collar or Border

Video tutorial on how to attach a ribbed collar

Row 1: Start at the bottom center of the sweater and attach yarn with a slip stitch. Work 7 chains. Starting with 3rd chain from hook, work 1 hdc in each chain back to the body. Join to the next stitch on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (5 hdc)

Row 2: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each stitch across. (5 hdc). Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 5 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (5 hdc + 3 sl st)

Rows 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13, 14-15: Repeat Rows 2-3.

How to attach a ribbed border directly to a crochet piece

Row 16: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 4 st. Work 2 hdc in the extra front loop of next st. Turn. (6 hdc)

Row 17: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 6 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (6 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 18: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 5 st. Work 2 hdc in the extra front loop of next st. Turn. (7 hdc)

Row 19: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 7 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (7 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 20: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 6 st. Work 2 hdc in the extra front loop of next st. Turn. (8 hdc)

Row 21: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 8 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (8 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 22: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 7 st. Work 2 hdc in the extra front loop of next st. Turn. (9 hdc)

Row 23: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 9 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (9 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 24: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 8 st. Work 2 hdc in the extra front loop of next st. Turn. (10 hdc)

Row 25: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 10 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (10 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 26: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 9 st. Work 2 hdc in the extra front loop of next st. Turn. (11 hdc)

Row 27: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 11 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (11 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 28: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each stitch across. (11 hdc). Turn.

Row 29: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 11 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (11 hdc + 3 sl st)

Rows 30-66: Repeat Rows 28-29, in pairs.

Row 67: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 9 st. Work 1 hdc2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (10 hdc)

Row 68: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 10 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (10 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 69: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 8 st. Work 1 hdc2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (9 hdc)

Row 70: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 9 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (9 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 71: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 7 st. Work 1 hdc2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (8 hdc)

Row 72: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 9 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (8 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 73: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 6 st. Work 1 hdc2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (7 hdc)

Row 74: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 8 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (7 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 75: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 5 st. Work 1 hdc2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (6 hdc)

Row 76: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 6 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (6 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 77: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 4 st. Work 1 hdc2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (5 hdc)

Row 78: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 5 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (5 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 79: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each stitch across. (5 hdc). Turn.

Row 80: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 5 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (5 hdc + 3 sl st)

Rows 81-88: Repeat Rows 79-80, in pairs.

Row 89: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each stitch across. (5 hdc). Turn.

Row 90: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each of next 5 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in next stitch on main body. Work 1 sl st in next st (same as starting st). Turn (5 hdc + 3 sl st)

Row 91: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each stitch across. (5 hdc). Turn.

Join Row 91 with Row 1.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Flip the collar back, and you’re done!

Simple Starlight Shrug using Tunisian crochet

I’m so happy that #1: I’m finally done!! and #2: that it fits! The cocoon is so warm and cozy, it makes me want to sit outside on a cool evening just so I can wrap myself up in it.

Super cozy Starlight Shrug, crochet pattern using Tunisian Knit Stitch

The weight of the sweater does stretch it out a bit, so I would store it folded, and not hung up. After all my measuring and worrying about the sweater being too short, the collared border lands right at the back of the thighs, which is actually longer than I expected!

Simple Starlight Shrug - free crochet pattern using Tunisian Knit Stitch

Make a warm and cozy Starlight Shrug using Tunisian crochet knit stitch. Free pattern and video tutorial included!

Simple Starlight Shrug

If you make a Starlight Shrug, please share your completed projects with me on Facebook (One Dog Woof) or Instagram (@1dogwoof)! Remember to add the hashtags #starlightshrug and #1dogwoof!

I received product from Lion Brand Yarn for this project and post. The pattern, all notes, instructions, photos and opinions are 100% my own. 

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3 Comments

  1. Melissa

    I was thinking if you could do the knit, purl ribbing to prevent the curling on both ends. I have done that on huge projects like the Lion Brand Natures Bounty afghan simply because it gives a nice edge and a foundation for an Tunisian Eyelet border.

    Reply
  2. Ellie Penders

    Hello is there e passebilitty to translite this in dutch,because my englisch is not so good.

    Reply
  3. konveksi hijab jogja

    Excellent post. I’m dealing with a few of these issues as well..

    Reply

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